The Frankincense Trail

Frankincense — dried sap of the Boswellia sacra tree — was the gold of antiquity. Dhofar was the only place it grew in trade quantity, and the four UNESCO-listed sites of the Land of Frankincense map the route from grove to coastal port.

Overview

The four sites

Wadi Dawkah is the protected wild grove. Sumhuram (Khor Rori) and Al Baleed are the coastal ports that shipped the resin to Rome, India and China. Shisr/Ubar is the inland caravan stop on the desert leg toward Mediterranean markets. Together they were inscribed as a single serial UNESCO property in 2000.

Two-day self-drive itinerary

Day 1: Salalah base — morning at Al Baleed (museum + ruins), afternoon at Sumhuram and Khor Rori. Day 2: Inland — drive 2 hours north to Wadi Dawkah grove, continue 1 hour to Shisr/Ubar with site museum, return via the Empty Quarter edge or back to Salalah.

Buying frankincense

All four sites are non-commercial — buy in the Mughsail or Salalah souqs. The grades from cheapest to most prized are: dakhar (browny), shaabi (white), najdi and the premium hojari. Hojari is grown only in the limestone uplands above Wadi Dawkah.

Practical tips

• Visit Al Baleed in the late afternoon — the ruins glow at sunset and the mangrove is full of birds.
• Bring sunshade for the Wadi Dawkah grove; trees are short and there is no built shade.
• Refuel in Thumrait before continuing to Ubar — it is the last petrol station for ~150 km.

Locations

Frequently asked questions